Things are Starting to Work!

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Winter sunrise over Camden Harbor, Maine

 

I can run again!  I’ve been hobbling around for a long time frustrated by hip and ankle issues.  But here in Maine I’ve had nothing better to do than to show up every day at Planet Fitness.  I start each workout with the back exercises I learned in physical therapy last summer to strengthen my core to support my spine.  Then I wander around and push, pull, lift and squat.  I’m an old guy, so nothing too serious.  The main thing is to show up.

Amazingly, the hip issues gradually have disappeared.  And as I’ve walked on the treadmill the ankle issues have dissipated as well.  Until one day last week I thought, hmmm, what would happen if I ran?  By the end of the week I had a pretty decent pace going on the treadmill.  What a victory!  I’m living pain-free through exercise.

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maple syrup on the rise

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Belted Galloways, Aldermere Farm, Camden

The Work Thing is Working Too.

One of the things we hoped for when we set out on our travel adventures was that Wendy would be able to pick up contracts to work a few months each year to pay our expenses for the remainder of the year.  We are pleased to say that our first foray in part-year work has been a great success — and sooooo much less stressful than owning our own medical practice. Central Maine Medical Center in Lewiston has been a delightful place to work.

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Yes, there are moments when the “howler” (pager) goes off in the middle of the night.  This thing has a sound designed to split your brain.  And with it comes the stress of knowing that someone’s life may depend on Wendy’s decisions in the next few hours.  (That’s one aspect of being a doctor that Wendy will not miss when she retires.)  But we no longer have any worries about our employees, payroll or profits.  Physicians contract work is so much less stressful.  This work thing is working!

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A satisfied patient

We Have Been So Welcomed.

Can you believe we have had dinner with three different families in the few weeks we’ve been here in Maine?  At one dinner invite, a hardy woman told us stories about living in Eskimo villages at the Arctic Circle when her dad worked for the Canadian government. So, frigid winters in Maine are just mildly entertaining for her. Another night, we gathered with two other couples over a meal, and then had dessert from an authentic Italian bakery sampling decadent limoncello bars, chocolate truffle cake and eclairs while playing chicken foot dominos.  One of the wonderful things about being a Mormon is that wherever you go, you are welcomed as if you were family. And, as a part of that family, we’ve been given the opportunity to share in the work such as teaching classes, serving with the young missionaries and speaking in our church meetings.  We have been made to feel very comfortable here, greatly needed and wanted.  Gifts of homemade oatmeal bread, farm fresh chicken eggs and tasty pickled relishes have filled our stomachs and warmed our hearts.

-Clay

 

A Gift Freely Given

The most important things I choose to do in life, I do for free.  When you do something with no expectation of compensation, it says something.  It says you are sincere.  You may be misinformed or mistaken, but you are definitely sincere.

I have taken countless people flying, for free.  Why?  To share the joy of flight with them. To see the wonder and thrill of it in their eyes.  Check out this video of an adorable 4-year old getting her first airplane ride.  This is what I’m talking about!

Let’s go fly!

Although I was a Registered Investment Advisor (RIA) for many years and managed retirement portfolios, I much prefer using my experience and knowledge now to teach people to manage their own investments.  Imagining my friends becoming financially independent is reward enough.  I love investing.  And I so enjoy teaching those few souls who can catch the vision, and have the courage and clear thinking to take control of their own financial destiny.

Wendy and I have had a habit, our entire lives, of volunteering at church.  And we love it! I have had so many amazing adventures as a scout leader, a public speaker, a teacher, and a leader through these volunteer church assignments.  I’m convinced that I get far more out of these experiences than those I’m supposed to be helping.  I learn, I grow, and I feel satisfaction.

As Wendy and I looked at our schedule for 2016, we saw a great opportunity to volunteer this year.  So we went through the process (with the help of Bishop Jon Allen of the South Mountain Ward, and President Porter of the Phoenix Arizona Stake of our church) of applying to be senior missionaries for the Church of Jesus of Latter-day Saints. And Monday, January 18, we received a formal letter from President Thomas S. Monson, the President of our church, inviting us to serve for six months, beginning May 2, 2016.  He has assigned us to serve in the Wyoming Mormon Trail Mission.

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Trek group at Martin’s Cove starting their river crossing

 

What will we be doing?  Helping people understand and appreciate what it was like to walk with their families, pulling all their earthly belongings in a hand cart, 1300 miles from Illinois and Iowa to join other members of their faith in the desert of the Utah Territory during the years 1847-1868.  I love this history and am fascinated by what motivated these ordinary people to do such extraordinary things.

There are several historical sites where guests are led on treks, pulling hand carts to reenact and experience for themselves what the journey was like.  And there is also a visitor’s center where missionaries can tell the stories and show video reenactments.

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So that’s where we will be from May through October of this year.  Again, the most important things I do, I do for free.  And I’m looking forward to honoring these pioneers who helped build the character of our nation.  Freedom of religion and the desire to be with others of the same faith was so important to them, they gave up their homes and jobs, sold all that they had to pay for ship’s passage from numerous countries in Europe, to come to America.  Then they took ferries and trains to what was at that time, the western edge of the United States, in Iowa.  And from there they walked with their children to over 1,000 miles to the Salt Lake Valley. I expect to learn a lot from these pioneers as I dig into this part of our nation’s history.

More details to come once we get there and get our assignments.  It’s going to be a fun and meaningful year.

Clay

 

Work Camping On the Road

Retirement Plan #1 was to retire on January 1, 2018.  By then we would have plenty and to spare in our retirement portfolio to buy a motorhome and be full-time, no-work travelers.  But we were simply running out of physical and emotional gas.  When it’s no longer fun, it’s time to make a new plan.  Hence, Retirement Plan #2.

Retirement Plan #2 is to work several months each year to fund our annual expenses, live cheaply so we don’t have to work more than a few months a year, and let Clay grow the earnings of our portfolio until they can support our annual expenses.

So how does one find work on the road to support this nomadic lifestyle?

Working on the Road

There are tons of interesting opportunities to earn money or volunteer while living on the road full time. Some pay money and some give free RV spots with full-hookups in exchange for a bit of your time each week.

Locum Tenens (LT)

There are opportunities for medical professionals to work and live on the road full time doing locum tenens (temporary) assignments.  So if you are a doctor, dentist, CRNA, nurse practitioner, nurse or physician assistant, this may be for you!

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Ready for the operating room on locum tenens assignment

You can make the arrangements yourself with a hospital or practice (and keep all the money you negotiate for your fees), or you can become a subcontractor for a professional LT company that does the legwork and gets the assignments for you. That’s the easiest way to go, but you share the hospital’s pay with the LT.

For me, having a reputable company managing my contracts is more important and so much easier than doing it myself.  The LT company arranges travel, housing, utilities, cable/internet, car rental as well as the endless paperwork for getting state licensure, hospital privileges and recommendations.  So far, I have been very pleased with CompHealth.

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What if you’re not in the health profession like me?  Actually, the vast majority of work opportunities for full-time travelers are outside the health profession.  And if you follow the weather, you can easily live in your RV year round while doing temporary assignments.

Following is a partial list of organizations with job sites for full-time travelers.  Click on the links to research each site.

Workampingjobs.com

A free site for RV workers and the businesses that need them. Employers can submit listings for volunteer work camping positions, paid positions or a combination of both. Positions can be seasonal, temporary, short or long term, full or part time. RV workers can submit a detailed online resume to let employers know they are available.

Escapees/Escapers

Want to work while you travel? Want to hire RVers looking for work? The Job Board matches job opportunities with traveling contract workers who want full or part-time work.

Amazon

Ever wonder what type of people pack those boxes of stuff you order from Amazon?  Some of them are people who live in travel trailers and motorhomes!

According to their website,  amazonfulfillmentcareers.com, the Amazon CamperForce program brings together a community of enthusiastic RV’ers who help make the holidays bright for the customers of the world’s largest online retailer, Amazon.com. As a CamperForce Associate, you’ll begin this seasonal assignment in early Fall and work until December 23rd in either: Jeffersonville, IN, Campbellsville, KY, Murfreesboro, TN or Haslet, TX. Amazon offers great pay, a paid completion bonus, paid referral bonuses, and paid campsites for its CamperForce Associates.

So, you work on your feet 10-12 hrs a day  packing boxes, but you also get in shape and form lasting bonds with other CamperForce members.

Freelancing online

There are many companies who need projects done but don’t want to hire and take care of permanent employees. Thanks to the internet, there’s a ton of jobs to choose from online.  Here is a link to the largest such job site:

UpWork

State Parks

State parks around the country are looking for volunteers.

oregonstateparks.org has multiple opportunities from campground hosting, maintenance hosting, day-use host, archive explorer/museum assistant, trail ambassador and … interpretive hosting at lighthouses.

Lighthouses! And unlike some other states, Oregon only requires a one month commitment, but you can work longer.  A travel blogger (wheelingit.com) gives a lovely commentary on lighthouse hosting.

Volunteer Park Rangers

Another option is signing up to be a volunteer park ranger at dozens of  federal parks around the country.  In exchange for a full hook up RV site, a couple or single person works a total of 32 hours in a week. So, if there are two of you, 16 hours a piece.

Work might involve manning or womaning the gift store or information booth, checking in guest campers, collecting daily use site fees or acting as a tour guide.

Sitting Bull Falls- Gem of the Desert

We found this place by going to one of our favorite sites, tripadvisor.com and looking under “Carlsbad, New Mexico- Things To Do”.  Sitting Bull Falls made the list — it is over an hour’s drive west of Carlsbad in the middle of desert nowhere.  But oh so worth it. You don’t need to go digging for gems in the desert – it’s just sitting there for the taking.

After driving to the end of a narrow river box canyon with high ridges on three sides, the white haired volunteer ranger ambled up to our Jeep when we parked at the lovely picnic table area with individual sturdy stone pavilions covering them.

Showing him our handy dandy Interagency Use Pass (which gets us into most of the National Forest and National Park areas for free for a year after paying $80) saved us the $5 per person day use fee. He told us about the Falls and how to go up and over the rim of the canyon for a nice hike that would take just over an hour to complete.

We peppered him with questions about his volunteer ranger service. Five months ago, he and his wife came to see the falls, but the gate was locked. They asked at the ranger station far down the road and discovered the falls were closed because there were no volunteers to staff the falls.  They couldn’t keep it open, except for 3 hrs a day, four days a week. Which was hardly worth it after such a long drive to get there- and how would you know if it was closed or not? There are no up-to-date websites on the area.

The old guy said, “My wife and I will host the site in our RV and commit to stay a year.”  The rangers were thrilled to have them and now they live on site with full hookups,  a cement pad, a stone covered picnic area and a privacy wall that partially blocks the canyon winds.

We walked the trail along the typical dry rocky desert canyon wall, rounded the corner and saw…. an oasis of lush green vegetation and sparkling waterfall reminiscent of a Hawaiian paradise. It was all kinds of yummy rolled into a feast for the eyes.

Using our hiking packs as pillows, we laid down on the warm sandstone beach, soaking up the rays, listening to the rush of the waterfall and the wind as it rushed in waves through the canyon. I practiced meditation breathing just to see if I could clear my mind completely. Even if just for a few seconds.

I need to do more of this.

After gathering up our mojo, we took the hike right up the canyon walls in switchback carved stone and wood steps up to the top of the ridge, careful of where we placed our feet on the boulder strewn path.

We would not have made the trek if some kind souls hadn’t rated the experience on Trip Advisor. Thanks whoever you are!  And we wouldn’t have been able to enjoy the falls if this couple had not volunteered to stay a year in this remote, but beautiful place.  We thank you.

White Sands National Monument- Sandy Beach with No Ocean

In the middle of the typical New Mexico desert is an atypical oasis of white sand that fills the basin between the circle of surrounding mountains. A truly zen place to explore.

There was a sunset hike scheduled so we met the volunteer park ranger for a walk on the dunes. He and his wife live in their RV and were here on a 3 month assignment. This was just one of the many places they had worked. For 32 hrs a week, split between the two of them, they got a free full hook up site and did whatever they were assigned to do during their work hours.

And they got to tromp around the sand dunes, which always stay cool to the touch, even in the heat of summer, because they are not silica based sand, but powdered gypsum.

There was so much to see and learn, and then the magnificent sunset.

What a great job!

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument- Condos with a View

Above Silver City, New Mexico, after driving on winding roads about 2 hours through high mountain pines is the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. The mile long hike up to the dwellings starts in a canyon next to a rippling creek with crossing foot bridges, cool green vegetation and beautiful rock formations.

The dwellings with their 46 rooms are carefully crafted inside natural caves. The hearty people who lived there bounded up and the down the rocky face to retrieve water in the creek at the bottom. No baby gates, so you needed kids with self-preservation skills.

Volunteer rangers staff the nice visitor’s center, the trailhead and the dwellings themselves.

Don’t these look like amazing places to live while volunteering?

 

Wendy

Just Slap Me!

Wendy and I love to take big leaps into new adventures.  One of our favorite movie scenes is when Indiana Jones must overcome the third of three trials of faith to reach the Holy Grail (cup of the Nazarene) by leaping from the mouth of the lion. Do you remember that scene?

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Well, Wendy and I have pictured that moment in our minds as we have held hands and taken that first step into the unknown together.  Marriage, first baby, Air Force, graduate school, second baby, medical school, building airplane, first flight, formation flying, selling house, closing medical practice, buying motorhome, going on the road.

Tomorrow, January 2, 2016, Wendy and I will hold hands and once again take a step into another new adventure.  We will board an airplane from beautiful sunny Tucson, AZ and at the end of the day we will arrive at our new digs for a 4-month stay in Lewiston, ME.  “ME” as in Maine (you know, that state that half-belongs to Canada).  We’re in shorts and sandals today.  Tomorrow, we’ll be in long underwear.  It will be a major shock to our bodily systems.

This transition reminds me of one of the brilliant stunts my high school buddy, Joe Young, pulled our junior year.  Four of us would get up every morning and play racquetball and lift weights at a club before school.  On this fine morning as we were all soaking in the hot tub after a hard workout, Joe said “Hey, let’s all get really hot in this hot tub and then run over there to the showers and take a super cold shower”.  We all looked at each other and said, “OK Joe.  You first”.  So Joe jumps out of the hot tub, turns on the cold water and we watched as he immediately keeled over like an ironing board.  Splat!  Out cold.  We thought he was dead.  It took a lot of face slaps before Joe came around — and he was messed up the entire rest of the day.

So Wendy and I are going to leave the Tucson hot tub and jump right into the Maine cold shower in the dead of winter.  Somebody get ready to slap me in the face!

 

 

You’re Going Where?!!

Let’s talk money for just a moment.

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Masteryourmoney.com

Our retirement fund has not yet caught up with our retirement ambitions.  And a significant portion of those funds are in IRAs, which we cannot use until we are 59 1/2 years old without paying a 10% penalty.  (We are in our mid-50’s, so we have several years before we plan to access the IRAs.)

Although our nomadic lifestyle is cheap, it still requires funding, and there is still RV maintenance (tires, batteries, engine), diesel fuel, food, cellular data, satellite and insurance (RV, car and health) to pay for.

Our plan has been to fund our adventures by working a few months each year and leave our retirement portfolio alone so it can continue to grow (my job).  

Work 4 months, play 8 months. We’re liking that scenario.

OK, so when I say “we” will continue to work, I’m using the royal form of “we”.  Wendy can make a ridiculous amount of money per hour as a surgeon, so our focus is on finding her work and I will tag along and try to be useful too (such as camp hosting, online-based jobs and working magic with the investments).

As with many professions, physicians have their own form of temp agencies.  And of course, because they are doctors, they felt compelled to come up with a highfalutin name for it, in latin of course.  They call it locum tenens (to hold the place of).

Wendy has been working with several of these agencies who have presented assignment options for 2016.

After very little discussion actually, we quickly chose our 2016 work assignment, which will start on January 4th in  (drum roll please……….) Lewiston, Maine.

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Lewiston, Maine (www.bates.edu)

Say what?!!!

So here’s how the conversation went.

I thought we might just hold off on working for 6 to 12 months to give Wendy a chance to rebound from the physical and emotional weight of being a surgeon after closing our practice in September.  She was so psychologically ready to be done.

But these last few months she was getting lots of calls from recruiters and she was starting to bounce around with excitement about the possibilities.  (I don’t understand Wendy, but it’s just how she is built.  She rebounds very, very quickly and she seems to have an unquenchable need for challenges.)

The single most important thing in choosing a work assignment is to select one that meets Wendy’s strengths.  Just like any other profession, there are specialties within specialties.  Wendy’s experience and strengths are a result of being a rural ENT doctor. She is an excellent clinician, meaning she is an expert detective.  She can figure out what’s wrong with you in a 15-minute appointment.  And, she can explain it to you so you understand, order the correct tests and then get you packed and shipped to the right sub-specialist to treat your problem. That is a rare gift.

Her skill set is different from most ENT’s located in urban areas.  They must typically sub-specialize into one or two areas.  So as we consider assignments, we will be looking for rural settings that need a clinician.

So what type of inZanity would cause us to apply for a job in Maine in January?

  1. It’s a perfect fit for her strengths as an ENT surgeon/clinician.
  2. She is ready for a new challenge.
  3. If you’re going to work, it really doesn’t matter where you are because there’s little or no time for play.
  4. They will pay us well to work in Maine in January.

So we said yes and they said yes and the recruiting agency is arranging for our paid housing, rental car, flights to and fro, etc. So, in January, Zane and Squirrel will go to an indoor motorhome daycare center in Tucson for the winter, anxiously awaiting our return in April.

 

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RV daycare center (National RV Central)

Wendy and I love being in a position to be so flexible.  One day we’re planning on living in the desert on BLM land for free from January through April, tromping around in sandals, to the next day where instead, we’re thinking snow shoes in Maine.  How cool is that?!

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Ft. Kent, Maine snow- winter 2007-8 (Kathy Berry)

Or rather, how Brrrrrrrr is that!

Clay

 

Post Flight Review – 1st Wild Camping

Can you imagine what a challenge it must be to take a submarine on its first voyage?  So many complex systems to manage; the nuclear, electrical, communications, fresh water, sewage, oxygen, warfare systems, etc.  I often think of our coach, Zane, as a simple submarine.  Only if we spring a leak, we’re not likely to sink.

All machines are created on paper (or software) by an engineer who divines how the machine should operate in order to meet its mission.   All machines have their idiosyncrasies.  So whether its a submarine, an airplane or a motorhome, you don’t just hop in and go for it.  You have to study the systems and test them step by step so that you and the machine become one as you use it to fulfill your mission.

Mission Type 1 – RV Resorts:

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KOA, DeForest, Wisconsin

For the first year we owned Zane we kept it parked at an RV resort in the mountains of north Georgia while we prepared to sell our business.  There we experienced temperatures ranging from 5 to 95 degrees.  So in the winter we learned to heat the water supply and the basement so our pipes would not freeze and in the summer we learned to manage our awnings, shades, fans and A/C to keep it cool.  Living in an RV resort allowed us to live on the cheap (as compared to a house) while enjoying a community with regular pickle-ball games, dinners, and the amenities of a pool, hot tub and exercise facilities.  What a wonderful lifestyle!

Mission Type 2 – Vacation Travel:

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French Quarter RV Resort, New Orleans- great place, walking distance to the quarter!

While we were anchored in north Georgia,  we used our motorhome for vacations.  We parked in the French Quarter of New Orleans

and at Gulf State Park near the beach in Gulf Shores, Alabama.

 

How much fun it was to be a tourist who goes to their home each night instead of a hotel.  I cannot begin to express the comfort and convenience of that paradigm.  And traveling to/from locations is entertaining.  Our coach is powered by diesel and audio books.  Wendy and I always have an audio book downloaded from the library to her phone so we just plug it into our sound system and listen to stories as we roll on down the road.  So much fun!

 

Mission Type 3 – Wild Camping:

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Pick a road, any road

Now that we have sold our business and are full-time travelers, our primary residence is on wheels so we can move it anywhere in the country.  And one of the most enticing kind of place for us is on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land.  This is property owned by the Federal Government whose purpose is to manage the property for the citizens of the United States.  As such, it is to be used by campers and leased for cattle grazing,  extraction of oil or gas, etc.  Dirt roads are cut to get access for these purposes.  And wide spots are created so that people can camp on them.  Vast areas in the western United States are managed by the BLM.

This month we had our first wild camping experience (also known as boon-docking or dry camping).  We were in Southwestern New Mexico within 10 miles of the Carlsbad Caverns, in the Chihuahuan Desert.

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Home Sweet Home- awnings fully deployed in the desert sun

 

The big question in our minds was whether our RV (and us) would function well in a wild camping situation.  Think about it.  Where do you get power for your lights, fans, PCs, fridge, and TVs?  What about your water?  What about your poo?  How long can you last on batteries without being tethered to the utility grid?  Did the engineer take into account that we have a SubZero residential refrigerator and satellite TV?

As it turns out, Zane is an awesome wild camping machine due to her 161 gallons of fresh water and six huge AGM batteries.  We are able to stay at our remote site for 14 days (the limit for camping at one BLM spot) with no trouble.  And in the process we determined that our stereo receivers gulp lots of wasted amps in standby modes, so we shut them down completely when not in use.  And, we tried with success a bathroom ritual to save water – ergo, if it’s yellow let it mellow….. if it’s brown, flush it down.  Plus, when showering we let the cold water collect in a gallon jug (to be used for washing dishes), then when it gets hot, we hop in, soap up, rinse down and get out. About a 90 second shower. We still had a quarter tank of water at the end of 14 days.

The house batteries lasted overnight and sometimes into the morning hours. When they got down to 12.0 volts we would turn on the diesel generator with the flip of a switch and let them recharge for a few hours, morning and night. During the generator time, we also used the electric cooktop and convection oven (which drain too much power to use on batteries alone) to fix our meals.  So we spent (0.4 gallons/generator hour x 5 hrs x $2.18/gal)= $4.36 a day.  How’s that for cost of living?

Whohoo! We love to wild camp. The privacy and scenery are wonderful. And it’s free!

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It is so great to have a machine that can meet all of our mission requirements.   Our plan is to do a spoke and wheel type program where we move the RV to a central location (preferably free BLM land) and do day trips to explore the area in our Jeep for a couple of weeks.  Then move to the next hub location.

The general plan is to stay in the desert southwest from November through April, then slowly work our way north through eastern California, Nevada, Utah or Colorado to the Northwest and Canada for the summer. Rinse, repeat.  We will spend most of the winters on BLM land for free so we can spend a little on rv resorts on occasion the rest of the year.  We also plan to work camp and volunteer during a month or two during the summer.

And, to add to the mix, Wendy plans to work 3 or 4 months each year as a temporary contract doctor (Locum Tenens).   So we will be arranging contracts here and there as the mood suits and the opportunity arises.

-Clay

Exploring In My Pajamas

I wake up at our first wild camping spot on BLM land near Carlsbad Caverns.  I look past our toes out the bedroom window and what do I see?  A whole new world that needs to be explored!  I have to tell you, I’m excited!!

Good morning new world!

Good morning new world!

Some people are built to stay in the same place their entire lives.  In the Appalachians of North Georgia where we called home for 14 years I have several friends who have no need to venture outside that beautiful mountain area and so they simply don’t.  They are content.  And those mountain scenes are beautiful.  Our home looked out over the Coosa Creek Valley with tree covered mountains behind.  Every day the view was different; one day we would watch as storm clouds swallowed the mountains one-by-one as they approached from the south, another day we would have fog in the valley below, and of course in the fall the trees are stunning.  It makes your heart sing.

And every time Wendy and I would return from a vacation in some exotic place in the Caribbean or Europe we would look out our back porch and realize — as wonderful as those places were, they still didn’t compare to the view out our back porch.

But each of us is built differently.  I am a wanderer.  Something comes over me from time to time.  I feel confined and trapped.  I feel stuck in a rut.  I yearn to explore.  In the past I could satiate this need by hopping in my airplane and disappearing into the sky.  At 180mph I could go far in short order.  But I couldn’t take Wendy with me because she was tethered to her phone as an on-call surgeon.  That was a real problem.

When Wendy and I were first married I commented to her several times that I could be  very happy in this world if I were alone with her on a deserted island.  She agreed, but we later amended this thought to include books.  Alone together on a deserted island — with books.  Our new motorhome lifestyle captures that desire perfectly.  Wendy and I are, at this very moment, completely alone, in a vast desert with no one closer than — who knows.  This desert seems endless.  I love it!

Anyway, as I was saying, this first morning I look between my toes out the window at this new back porch.  This new world must be explored!!!  No time for delay, so I walk out the door in my pajamas and smell that unique desert air.  Oh yeah!!!

But wait.  An important safety tip pops in my former scoutmaster brain.  Rattlesnakes!  They have rattlesnakes here.  Don’t you remember Gun Smoke and the Will Rogers Show?  And then there’s that cactus called Horse Crippler.  Hmm.  OK.  Back in the coach, strap on my boots, and now I’m ready to explore in my pajamas — with my boots on.

It reminds me of when our daughter Caroline was two years old and saw her first snow in Denver (where we lived).  I look up and realize she had somehow slid open the back door and was bent over licking snow off the deck — naked, except for her diaper.  I said “You have to dress properly to be outside in the cold. You don’t even have your boots on!” She dutifully came in and the next time I looked up she was outside, bent over licking snow again — naked, except for her boots and diaper. Obedient to the letter of the law.

So off I go to walk a 100 yard radius of the coach in my pajamas.  And what amazing discovery do I make?  Not one, not two, but three caves within 100 yards of the coach.  Wahoo!  How unexpected and cool is that!  Did I climb down into one of these caves?  No.  These things disappear into the netherworld and if I slipped I might be transported into that netherworld and Wendy would never know where to look.  So I did the good Boy Scout thing and just gaped from a safe distance at the edge.

What else did I discover?  Scat.  Looks like rabbit and some cow chips and some other yet to be identified poo.  New stuff to learn!  Yay!

And I also saw all kinds of desert plants, prickly pear, chola, bear grass and all kinds of other things I haven’t put a name to yet.

How much fun to explore our new home and discover so much in just the first 30 minutes.  But now it’s time to stretch out on our back porch and contemplate —- stuff.

The office. A place for contemplating the imponderables.

The office. A place for contemplating the imponderables.

It’s been a great day already and I’m still in my pajamas!

Clay

The oxen are slow, but the earth is patient

Carlsbad Caverns- worth the trip

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When I was a young girl we visited the caverns at Carlsbad. It left an impression on me– where else could you see such amazing formations and eat snacks in a cafeteria 700 feet underground?  I told Clay, “We HAVE to go to Carlsbad. The Caverns are what all other caves wish they could grow up to be.”

On Saturday, October 31, we drove up the flat ridge that comprises the national park property.  For this first trip into the cave, we chose to ride the elevator down, instead of the hour long, 1.5-mile trek down switch back trails through the natural cave entrance. We’ll save the natural cave entrance for one of next week’s adventures.

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2015-10-31 12.11.29We almost had the entire cave system to ourselves. With hand held audio guides, we wandered on paths through the Big Room (an enormous cavern the size of six football fields, 4000 feet long and 350 feet high), looking at the myriad formations. Strategic lighting illuminated fascinating features, but the cave was mostly left shadowed and silent.
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As each drop of mineral rich moisture frizzled down stalactites from the ceiling, forming daggers and crystals and curtains it also built up mounds, monsters, fairy creatures and goblins on the floor as stalagmites.  Drip, drip, over hundreds of thousands of years.

Time has no meaning in a cave like this. It just takes so very long to get things done. I was reminded of a phrase a Tibetan wise man told an impatient American pilot in the Tom Selleck movie, High Road to China, “The oxen are slow, but the earth is patient.”

Yes, she certainly took her time with these caverns, and I’m so glad she did.

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Bats and more bats, Oh My!

Tonight (Halloween) was the very last Ranger led bat flight program at dusk for the year. How lucky was that! Quite soon, the bats will migrate to warmer climes for the winter.  The bat flight program was scheduled to start at 5:45 pm so the ranger could be done before the bats flew at dusk. We got to the amphitheater at the natural cave entrance at 5pm. Good thing we did, because the bats started coming out right at that moment.  (The bats keep their own schedule and apparently don’t check with the rangers.)

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Postcard view from inside the cavern looking out at a bat flight

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Flying completely silent, there were suddenly swarms of Mexican free-tail bats rising out of the funnel shaped cave mouth, spiraling upwards in a counterclockwise vortex.  Wave after wave of bats arose then shifted into straight flight, regrouped in a hovering swarm of a few hundred bats, and then each group took off East looking for the nearest river to eat beetles and moths.

Although the outpouring of bats was constant, each flight separated from the next group to come out, like every bat knew exactly which squadron it belonged to.

The rangers estimate there are 400,000 bats in this colony.  They migrate during the late fall to warmer climes in Central and South America.

After they arrive at Carlsbad in the Spring, a mother bat gives birth to one offspring. For the first 4-7 weeks, they are left alone in their nursery during the night time hunt, clinging to the roof of the cave waiting for the moms to return (don’t loose your grip, Skippy!).  Although the mother bat calls to her individual pup, the first one to approach gets her milk.

As we watched the silent ballet, a huge hawk, taking advantage of the sheer mass of bats, swooped in and snatched a meal. He snapped up the tender bits for a few minutes and then tried for another one.  He caught four more bats before the flight was over.

About thirty minutes into the constant outpouring of bats we started hearing chirps in the air, like the bats were talking. No, it was the cave swallows, really miffed that they had arrived too late to get back into the cave for the night before the bats started flying out.  The swallows had to wait their turn for thirty more minutes before the bats finished their exit.  So the swallows satisfied themselves by swooping around in anger and hassling the exiting bats.

After an hour, as the sun was setting in the western sky with rosy red and gold and the eastern sky was bathed in blue and pink, the bats were gone.

Happy Halloween!

Wendy

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Get Along, Little Dogies

Free at Last!

After 13 days in OKC, we finally got back on the road Tuesday, October 27. Whew! The last week was spent trying to fix a glitch caused by an engine computer update, which they didn’t charge us for.  But it does cost to live in a motel and eat out every meal. And yes the repair bill was a Zooiinng, but Zane is working great and starts up right away now.

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Farewell, Oklahoma! 

Then we drove south to Aledo, Texas (near Dallas/Ft. Worth) and the Cowtown RV Park for one night, so we could go to dinner at a cajun restaurant with my brother Mark Walton and his wife, Christy who live in nearby Saginaw. It was lovely to see them and to have our rig back!

Wednesday, we scooted down to Abilene, Texas and Wally-Docked (boondocked overnight in a WalMart parking lot). We realized that staying for free in truck stops and rest areas meant we were using our generator for the entire time (15 hours) and that added up in diesel fuel costs. Maybe WalMart would be quiet enough to just leave the generator off and open the windows. It worked out fine. Cheaper boondocking. Oh yeah, now the expenses are coming down.

Thursday, the next morning, I was anxious to see the National Center for Children’s Illustrated Literature Museum, which Clay so graciously found on TripAdvisor.com (things to do in Abilene, Texas)- wasn’t that sweet of him?  I love, love, love children’s book art. So we found the museum, walked up to the door, and discovered it was closed due to ceiling repairs. Drats and disappointment.

The consolation prize was the Frontier Texas! Museum. Neat displays and hologram images of characters from the old west and the conflicts between the buffalo hunters who wiped out the herds and the Comanche horse culture that depended on the buffalo for their way of life.  We learned some things and had fun doing it.

On we rolled in the afternoon.  We passed endless fields of ripe cotton and bales the size of huge trucks, oil rigs and windmill farms on our way to Hobbs, New Mexico for another Wally-Dock.  Because we have a big fridge and great food, we never eat out for any meal. And the Hello Fresh recipes are amazing.  The grilled chicken breast with peach and spinach leaf salad and garlic/olive oil toasted baguette croutons was so tasty and refreshing after a long day.

Carlsbad For Now

Friday we arrived in Carlsbad, New Mexico, our stay put destination for the next few weeks to a month. So tickled to be out West!  I keep clapping my hands like a little kid.

We had looked on the ALLSTAYS app for BLM (Bureau of Land Management) places to boondock without fees or hook ups of any kind. Our goals for this first extended boondocking experience are to:

  1. Spend no money.
  2. See how long we can live on our 161 gallon water and dump tanks before we have to refill and dump.
  3. See how long we can live on our 6 massive AGM Lifeline batteries before we need to crank up our generator to replenish them.
  4. Be completely alone.

(We’ll let you know how it turns out in a later post.)

Being new to this BLM dispersed camping routine, we drove 20 miles down the road to the first option as it appeared on the app, unhooked our toad (Jeep) to investigate the road condition and any potential problems. These are not official campsites– just pull off areas alongside dirt roads people have used for years and then told others about.  Although it looked like the perfect camping spot on the satellite views, the Dark Canyon area had piles of gravel blocking every entrance. Curses, foiled again.

Plan B: Go to the BLM office in Carlsbad and see where else we could camp.  Mr. Goodbar of the BLM graciously spent time with us, marking a survey map with potential spots we could try.  He was very enthusiastic and helpful.  With some hope, but not much confidence, we set out again in our Jeep, 25 miles out of town, off the main road and over a cow guard onto an unmarked two track hard pack dirt road.  About a mile or so driving through the desert over a rise and down again, we found a parallel pull off that would work great, and then drove further until we found a well head (natural gas?) with a cleared out areas for large trucks to turn around. Should work for Zane!

We drove back to get the RV and a heavy duty brush clipper from the hardware store. I got into my long sleeve work shirt, pants, boots and gloves and drove the toad up the dirt track, with Clay following in Zane, stopping every thirty feet to cut back thorn bushes with 1 1/2 inch long wicked thorns that might stick to the tires or scratch the paint until we got to our site.  It took about five hours to get this all done from the time we arrived in Carlsbad.

This is a good spot!  The coach cockpit faces South, with sun rising at the East-facing head of our bed and the sun setting at the foot of our bed over the low ridge of Guadalupe Mountains out the West-facing living room window.  We placed our lawn chairs on a mat and sat down in the hot sunshine. Home Sweet Desert.

You cannot see the rig from the highway, which we like, and we are surrounded by low desert scrub and cacti as far as you can see in all directions.

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Zane in her native habitat

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No neighbors

 

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There is no noise, no wind, no sound except the other night, about 3 in the morning, cool air through the open windows carried the spooky call of a coyote very close to the RV. Aaawwwwoooooooooooooo.

Next up: Carlsbad Caverns and Bats!

Wendy

Things to Do Around Oklahoma City

The Longer You Stay, the More Things Happen

You’re still in OKC? You must really like the place!!

Not so fast, buckaroo. It’s all about the waiting. Patiently waiting for good news. We’ve been here a week getting repairs on the Detroit Diesel motorhome engine.

In the meantime, a call came in from the body shop in Blairsville that has taken on the assignment to sell our Infiniti G37 coupe. Hey we could use some good news: maybe they have a buyer!!

Nope. This is all about a series of unfortunate events. Never in the history of their business as this EVER happened. They are SO sorry.  Uh oh.  Sorry about what?

Apparently an employee at the car rental agency that shares their building pulled up in a rental SUV, jumped out and went into his office. A few minutes later the SUV, which was not in park and did not have it’s parking brake on, rolled down the lot and crashed in our car. Creamed it.

We had a pristine car for sale. Now we have a severely damaged car that will need extensive repairs and will never be worth the asking price. Arrggghhhh. We’ll have a discussion with the car rental agency about this, I assure you.

Then we got a call from the truck engine shop- “You’re good to go. RV is all done”, they say.  So we packed our stuff up from the motel and showed up at 3pm while the technician was finishing his paperwork.  We asked him how the test drive went, and he said “Ahh, we were just getting to that.”  30-minutes later the technician tells us the test drive did not go so well.  An engine warning code is coming on, so we’ll have to keep it another night.

Back to the motel, get another room (yay, change of scenery) and unpack.

I could use another watery zen sandwich on my floaty thingy in the motel pool, but the weather is too cloudy and breezy. Will settle for a classic TCM movie and see what tomorrow brings.

So while we have been waiting this past week, what have we done? I’m glad you asked, because it has been surprisingly interesting.

Things to See and Do in OKC

~The National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum

So, I’m not a cowgirl, but this is a fascinating, huge place. Every gallery leads into another 2 galleries, with lots of twists and turns. From Native American art to saddles, old cowboy movies, rodeo, hundreds of barb wire samples (I didn’t know there were so many designs!), John Wayne’s memorabilia collection, art by Russell and Remington and a jaw-dropping collection of five groups of 16 foot high oil painted triptychs of scenes from the West.  It is well worth a visit.

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End of the Trail Monument

Out Where the West Begins, by Arthur Chapman, speaks to my need to roam this vast country:

Out where the handclasp’s a little stronger,
Out where the smile dwells a little longer,

That’s where the West begins;
Out where the sun is a little brighter,
Where the snows that fall are a trifle whiter,
Where the bonds of home are a wee bit tighter,

That’s where the West begins.
Out where the skies are a trifle bluer,
Out where the friendship’s a little truer,

That’s where the West begins;
Out where a fresher breeze is blowing,
Where there’s laughter in every streamlet flowing,
Where there’s more of reaping and less of sowing,

That’s where the West begins.
Out where the world is in the making,
Where fewer hearts in despair are aching,

That’s where the West begins.
Where there’s more of singing and less of sighing,
Where there’s more of giving and less of buying,
Where a man makes a friend without half trying,

That’s where the West begins.

~Oklahoma River

Bike and walking paths that follow the river on both sides, beautiful landscaping. Home of summer water sports.  Very cool place to spend time.  We’ve enjoyed hiking and biking these trails.

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Oklahoma River walking trail

~Land Rush monument.

in 1889, unassigned lands were opened to up in a race on April 22. At high noon, 50,000 people raced off to grab either a town lot or up to 160 rural acres. Those who cheated and hid out in the brush ahead of time to claim the best pieces of land were called Sooners.  (And now you know!)

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Oklahoma Land Rush Monument


 

~Bass Pro Shop

The river walk leads under the highway and into lovely manicured areas by the Land Rush Monument and the downtown hotel district and a Bass Pro Shop. I don’t think I’ve ever been in one of these stores before. (Hey, we’ve lived in Blairsville for 14 years.  We were thrilled to get a Walmart.)  This store is an event unto itself. The clerk said this was one of the smaller Bass Pro Shop stores, because it didn’t have a restaurant.  But it did have a herd of taxidermied bison running across the top of the clothing displays; an entire coyote family; a grizzly bear scaring off rock rappelling mannikins; a river camp with an old cabin and a rusted pickup truck over an aquarium fishing hole filled with huge live game fish; and acres of things to buy, including  an indoor fleet of enormous pontoon boats.

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I resisted the urge to be a conspicuous consumer and only walked away with my replacement Leatherman mini-multi tool (which the TSA so kindly confiscated on my last flight) and a set of sporks for our Bento lunch boxes.  I really liked the ice cream making soccer ball and the camoflaged foodsaver vacuum systems for hunters.

Can see myself in a small inflatable rubber row boat: on a lake, fishing for our supper, napping when I feel like it- away from it all, rocking to the rhythm of the water. There might be room in the RV basement for an inflatable boat.

~Rodeo

Attended the Prairie Circuit Finals in Duncan, OK. The winners will go on to the finals in Kissimmee, Florida in April, 2016. Steer wrestling, calf roping, team roping, barrel racing, bareback horse riding, saddle horse riding, bull riding. Exhilarating and fun. We’ll be doing this again.

An older man, skinny as a rail, tan as a nut, maybe 110 pounds after a full Thanksgiving dinner, sat next to me in the stands. He had on a cream straw cowboy hat, a pristine ironed cowboy shirt, blue jeans with a sparkling sheen of heavy starch, with a crease so sharp it could cut you and Sunday go to meetin’ cowboy boots. He was the real deal.

 

 

~Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK

When is a heritage center sweet? When the darling little guide tells you with great sober sincerity about your Experience Theater ahead of time- to make sure you are prepared for the 4-D event. You are immersed in a cattle drive up from southern Texas due north 1000 miles in 100 days to Kansas City, herding longhorn cattle in all kinds of weather and danger. You smell the sage, feel the thunder of cattle hooves, sense the wind and even get wet in a thunderstorm. Fun for all ages.

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~Western Wear Stores.

These are everywhere and they are HUGE. I mean, can you really sell 500 pairs of $500 cowboy boots or thousands of pairs of jeans and plaid shirts??  I don’t know, but they sure try.

 

 

~Disc Golf.  

We went walking at the Will Rogers Park the other day and saw groups of people- all ages from little kids to teenagers, young adults and older folks like us playing the different holes of a large disc golf course. It was heartening to see and no one was on their cell phones: no texting, tweeting, twerting or tweeking. We have the equpment, just need to get started!

At the rate we are going, we may become experts at the game before we leave OKC. Got plenty of time.

Wendy